Hexham
History
Situated
on a glacial terrace in the beautiful Tyne Valley overlooking the river in an
area has that been inhabited for around 8000 years. When Middle stone-age people
hunted fished and moved between lowland and highland with the seasons.
4000
years ago saw more organised farming, and the clearing of forests to use for
grazing.
In 70AD the Valley was dominated by the Great Celtic Tribe ‘The Brigantia’.
Both sides of the Tyne at this time were dotted with occasional hill forts and
farms.
Further
down the Centuries AD… the Romans under Emperor ‘Hadrian’ built a wall as
their East-West (A69) boundary route linking it with their North-South
‘Dere Street’ (A68) route. The wall formed Northern frontier of the Roman Empire.
The
exact origin of the town is not recorded. Most historians refer to AD 671 as
being the beginning of a settlement. At that time Queen Etheldreda
of Northumbria a relative of King Oswald of Heavenfield
fame (HEAVEN FIELD LINK) gave Hagustald’s
land (Hexhamshire) to Wilfred Bishop of York.
Wilfred built an Abbey and Monastery on the vantage point of the glacial terrace
where the current Abbey now stands. A town began growing around the Abbey.
Like
all of the north of England Border area turmoil came regularly
with constant attacks from the Scottish. Added to these in the 8-10thC
the Viking invaders arrived, the
Abbey and surrounding settlement were burned and looted.
The
12-13C saw the town and Abbey rejuvenated by the new Norman masters. Rebuilding
of the dilapidated Priory was also begun.
Late
in the 13C the town was under frequent attacks
from the Scot’s. On one such, horrific occasion, it is said that up to
200 schoolboys were locked in a school and burnt to death by the raiders. The
priory once again also suffered.
In
1297 Scottish leader William Wallace (Braveheart
Fame) settled in the town allowing rebuilding to take place, but at the same
time holding the town to a heavy ransom agreeing to
forbid his troops from causing damage.
Wallace and his followers left early in the 14C.
The
Town was almost immediately under attack from another Scottish raider Robert
Bruce, as well as suffering devastation with the Black Plague.
Battle of Hexham.
1464
saw the last battle of the ‘Roses’ in the North. The battle took place a few
miles East of the town nr. Corbridge.
Camped there as guests where The Duke of Somerset and his (Lancastrian
Army). On hearing this Lord Montague (Yorkist)
marched his army from Newcastle and attacked the Lancastrians
who were easily defeated. Lord Somerset was next day publicly beheaded in Hexham.
A
developing town.
The
late 15th early 16C saw a market place outside the Priory with an adjoining
Archbishops Hall from which the surrounding shire was administered. The economy
was growing and the towns industries were expanding. Especially that of Tanning
and as a consequence, other associated meat by-products. Unfortunately even at
this time the Scots raids had not ceased and neither had visits from others.
End
to the Church of Rome
In
1515 lawlessness in the Town was rife with tales of robbers and highwaymen
operating in all areas including the Town Centre. A combination of this
unruliness, and a change in the religious rule, from
Church of Rome to the Church of England, prompted
King Henry VIII to send a team of ‘investigators’ to the town. Initially
these first visitors were forcibly sent back to the capital. Only months later
the ‘King’s royal-party’ returned with force and local power was defeated.
Families like those of The Percy’s were replaced with now familiar names of
The Fenwick’s and The Blackett’s.
Holy
Island.
The
Priory was closed and the whole area was now under control of The Tudor
monarchy. Catholics were suppressed to the point of being virtually hunted as
traitors to the crown. Many went into hiding and were known to be concentrated
in a particular area of Hexham nick named Holy
Island.
In
1640 a Scottish Army on a soiree into England in support of the anti royalist
forces of Oliver Cromwell was turned away from the town by the Royalist troops
based there.
European
war causes Riot!
The
17C saw growth and prosperity in the town. In 1603 a period of peace spread
throughout the country when James King of Scotland became James I of England and
Scotland. Border raiding clamed down but civil unrest was about to erupt!
Central government needed more men to fight the ongoing war against France.
Providing men depleted local peace keeping militia regiments. A form of
conscription was introduced, men were forced to be available for selection for
local duty. This caused outright rebellion!
On
9th March 1761 whilst local Magistrates were balloting names in The
Moot Hall a crowd of 5,000 angry local people gathered in protest outside in the
Market Place. Fearing their safety 2 units of militia were
summoned. Missiles were thrown and a militiaman was shot dead with another
mortally wounded. The order was give to fire! Almost instantly 50 men and women
rioters were dead. Ending almost immediately another brutal
moment in the town’s history.
Administration,
development.
Administration,
and the control of justice of the town, continued from the Moot Hall and
surrounding buildings.
Jacobites!
In
the 18thC anti Catholic feelings were still high and with the
Scottish Jacobite rebellion it was feared that the
Holy Island area of the Town would become a heaven for Jacobite
visitors. Fuelling ill feelings.
The
Military Road and the visitors are back!
Historians
make references to the very poor quality of road / tracks in the Hexhamshire
area contributing greatly to the defence of, and lack of, many more visitors to
the town. The nearby Military Road (B….) which transverses England East to
West, supports that theory.
Today
looking at the road link between Carlisle-Newcastle the current A69 road is the
most direct route. In 1745 there was no such road. The most popular route was
North of Hexham following the line of The Roman
Wall.
At
that time, still in the Jacobite era General Wade
and his army were summoned from Newcastle to defend Carlisle against an
approaching Scottish Army. Unfortunately due to bad weather and poor roads Wade’s
Army didn’t reach Carlisle they became totally bogged down near Hexham.
The
Scot’s passed Carlisle and drove on into England.
This
logistical blunder led to the ‘upgrading’ of the ‘Military Road', as it became
called, running parallel to the Roman Wall, greatly improving the East-West
link.
18th
Century Growth
In
the 18thC a strict rule of local government was in force with members
of the Guilds of Craftsmen forming the twice-yearly Borough Court.
Local
cottage industries were changing; Farming, Market Gardening, and Fruit and
Vegetable Growing where the leaders in the supply of needs to the rapidly
expanding population of Tyneside.
Although
classed as part of the Great Northern Coalfield Lead Mining was of greater
importance to the town. Providing employment for many living in the nearby
villages.
With
a network of rails feeding local produce into the new (1830) communications
link- the arrival of the Carlisle-Newcastle Railway was the boost the town
needed. The great City of Newcastle and the people of Tyneside required feeding
and Hexham farmers could provide ‘fast food’ by
rail.
19thC.
The
town centre was overpopulated and there was great concern over public health! Hexham
was identified as being the dirtiest town (of comparable size) in the country.
As a result improvements came: water, sewerage and lighting systems were
upgraded. Roads were re-laid and new ones replaced
tracks. The lack of an efficient schooling system saw the introduction of a
‘School-Board’, to control educational needs.
Leisure:
The building of Religious Chapels and Churches grew. Most notable were the
Scottish Presbyterians. The town also became the centre of the regions Catholic
Diocese. Growth of these Religious institutions saw increased support toward the
growth of schools. 1813 saw the formation of the first ‘subscription
school’.
Tourism:
The first uninvited tourists from Scotland and from across the North Sea had
many years before left their scars on the town.
The
area was now ready to welcome less fierce visitors.
To encourage them in 1878 the 80 bed roomed, Tynedale
Hydropathical Mansion, set in 30 acres of its own
grounds was built. With tennis courts, winter gardens and
many other social activities for the guests.
1890
The Race Course was revived.
1901
Market Square had a drinking fountain added.
1912
Abbey open’s its grounds for solitude and
relaxation.
In
the latter part of the 20th C virtually old industries had almost
vanished leaving tourism and farming as the main sources income and employment.
The
21st C. Town of Hexham has many assets:
Lies
in the heart of Roman Wall Country.
Many
fine Hotels.
Many
fine shops.
Fast main line railway
Station.
Supermarkets.
Hexham
remains one of the most picturesque and interesting towns in the North
East…well worth a visit.
Thank
you NW.